As we glided through the dreamy backwaters past the lush banks reeling with mangroves, palm trees that swayed in the late afternoon breeze from the ocean, I wondered why I hadn't come across Kerala in my encounter with India holidays before. A far cry from the chaotic hustle and bustle of Delhi, the spiritual cool of the high Himalaya and the parched red cities of Rajasthan, South India feels more like a watery idyll or a happy contented place, far removed from the cares of everyday life.
Welcome to God's Own Country, said our guide, noticing my rapturous delight. I was in Kerala with my partner and two kids on a family holiday that had started in Fort Cochin and was drawing to a close here on a traditional houseboat punted along the lazy backwaters of Aleppy. Of course that does not mean to say Kerala is very rich; it is in fact the poorest state in the whole of India. But the quality of life seems kinder. Kerala is very green, full of water with plenty of land for cereals and the Indian Ocean for fresh fish and fabulously big prawns. There are fewer people here than in the overcrowded cities and they all seem happy. Looking out at the tranquil scene, as the children dozed, I could see why.
Food I should tell you will be the highlight of any trip to South India. Along the way, we hopped out of our rice boat cruise, to stop by an island, first to see how a potent local liquor is extracted from a nut that grows here and then to have lunch. Forget the greasy curries and stodgy birianis we have at home, and try steamed fish with coconut, light stuffed pancakes served with pickles and earthy black daals. Breakfast shouldn't be skipped either and the idlis - soft coconut rice snacks - served with sambar and a lovely light way to start the day. But on the island, we had our best meal yet, the kind of feast that makes India holidays so much different from say a week in the Caribbean or a Mediterranean cruise.
As we sat by a makeshift bench a group of women from a local village came over to serve us a thali, a veritable moving feast! You each receive a tray with many empty bowls which are then filled up with curries, vegetables pickles and rice. Best of all you can refill your bowls with your favourites. It was possibly the best meal I've ever had and looking at the kids, fists full of rice in their mouths and my partner's grin, our guide was right, Kerala really is God's Own Country.
Welcome to God's Own Country, said our guide, noticing my rapturous delight. I was in Kerala with my partner and two kids on a family holiday that had started in Fort Cochin and was drawing to a close here on a traditional houseboat punted along the lazy backwaters of Aleppy. Of course that does not mean to say Kerala is very rich; it is in fact the poorest state in the whole of India. But the quality of life seems kinder. Kerala is very green, full of water with plenty of land for cereals and the Indian Ocean for fresh fish and fabulously big prawns. There are fewer people here than in the overcrowded cities and they all seem happy. Looking out at the tranquil scene, as the children dozed, I could see why.
Food I should tell you will be the highlight of any trip to South India. Along the way, we hopped out of our rice boat cruise, to stop by an island, first to see how a potent local liquor is extracted from a nut that grows here and then to have lunch. Forget the greasy curries and stodgy birianis we have at home, and try steamed fish with coconut, light stuffed pancakes served with pickles and earthy black daals. Breakfast shouldn't be skipped either and the idlis - soft coconut rice snacks - served with sambar and a lovely light way to start the day. But on the island, we had our best meal yet, the kind of feast that makes India holidays so much different from say a week in the Caribbean or a Mediterranean cruise.
As we sat by a makeshift bench a group of women from a local village came over to serve us a thali, a veritable moving feast! You each receive a tray with many empty bowls which are then filled up with curries, vegetables pickles and rice. Best of all you can refill your bowls with your favourites. It was possibly the best meal I've ever had and looking at the kids, fists full of rice in their mouths and my partner's grin, our guide was right, Kerala really is God's Own Country.
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